Hanoi, Vietnam

After 10 days in Nepal, we took a night flight from Kathmandu to Hanoi, via Kuala Lumpur. We are taking an inexpensive tour of some of the key sites in North Vietnam before a short volunteer opportunity in Quy Nhon, then venturing further south.

Fortunately for our first day, we were able to rest and regroup. The Gondola Hotel is in the heart of old town, near the lake, and quite comfortable. It also has great wifi which allowed me to update my blog. Here are some pix of our first day in Vietnam…

 

The shops tend to agglomerate in the old town with one part of a street full of eyeglasses, another full of veggies or meat, another with electronics or clothing or hardware stores. I came across one area that had a lot of artist shops full of original paintings – some just stacked up and some of work quite good. Just a taste…

 

Another stroll in the neighborhood as evening turned into a Saturday night…

 

Pano at night…

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Some Clips…

 

Study Questions:

  1. Research Hanoi. What are the main sites, especially in and around old town?
  2. How does the construction in Vietnam compare with that of India & Nepal?

Photography, Pt. 2

So, since this blog is so much about pix, let me take a stab at a philosophy of photography.

As a student of art and art history, it seems to me that art changed with the advent of photography. Impressionism gave impressions that photography could not, at least not at the time. Cubism, Dadaism, Surrealism, Abstract Expressionism represented ideas that artists without photography might not have had. (Of course, “The Garden of Earthly Delights” by Hieronymus Bosch – a fav – is one of many exceptions that did not attempt to simply depict reality.)

What changed? The fact that any nincompoop with a camera could click an image that would have taken a painter years of training and many hours of work to depict. Portraits and landscapes were now easy, instantaneous, and the technology likely put many talented painters out of work.

So while I admire Ansel Adams, Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Margaret Bourke-White, Vivian Maier, and all those National Geographic shutterbugs, should they be considered among the same ranks as Leonardo Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Francisco Goya, Salvadors Rosa and Dali, etc., Picasso, Renoir, etc., and especially Norman Rockwell? Come on, admit it, taking photographs is easy.

Sure, composition is always important and one can do a lot with a knowledge of lenses, apertures, shutter speeds, and gear. Of course timing, subject matter, and choice are key, and photoshopping gives a whole new realm of artistic options. But basically you simply point & click.

There is the eye. The art of seeing, and then the art of capturing what is seen. And a lousy photo album is not necessarily a testament to the lack thereof. But I enjoy it when a photographer shows me something that I haven’t been aware of, especially when I looked but didn’t see. Sometimes it’s the angle, sometimes the framing, sometimes the light. And when those are combined in portraying quotidian subject matter, it can make for an interesting photograph.

Previously in this blog I’ve commented on what tourists in museum take pictures of, and what they don’t. A shot of the folks photographing the Mona Lisa depicts that. (And what does that shot they took home mean to them?) Then there’s the selfie phenomenon. One could be critical or analytical, but there it is. And in this blog there are a bunch of ceiling selfies. (For super-cool ones, google John Marshall’s “Sunset Selfies.”

Anyway, most of my pix are pretty common tourist shots and just serve to document our trip. Occasionally, I’ll pick a weird angle, but often I go for symmetry. I’m also just using an iPhone 6 with no special lenses. (When I graduated from high school my parents gave me a Nikon [in the days of film] and I chose not to get any special lenses, but capture places and experiences simply. OK, I also neither wanted to pay for nor lug around a bunch of equipment, but it became part of my philosophy of photography.)

I do use the features of the iPhone, including adjusting light & color and cropping. In Bardia, I shot rhinos and a tiger through binoculars. It was there I fully realised the value of a telephoto lens. At GSAM, looking at the work of The Archibald Project team, I saw the validity of using such quality equipment with good capabilities. I appreciate technically superior pictures, but for myself, prefer the parameter of keeping it simple.

If there are particular subject matters I go for, they would be patterns and age or decay. I’m particularly drawn to an old brick wall with layers of paint that have worn away, maybe there’s a weed growing out of a crack and remnant of an old poster, or some tasteful tagging, or a person on the side with contemplative look. I’ve taken several that show a juxtaposition of funky old buildings, gordian knots of phone lines, laundry on the lines, cigarette smokin’ balcony posers, and a few other manifestations of patterns, decrepitude, daily life, or quirkiness.

Often I worry that I’m misrepresenting towns or countries because I take shots of trash, squalor, dilapidatedness, and entropy. I’m not drawn to most new buildings, shopping malls, or modern developments. The faded and water damaged walls at the orphanage are some of my personal favourites (but the place is clean and well cared for). Rusty metal, faded paint, patterns of mold, old wood, and combinations thereof I often find beautiful. To me, they represent time, the venerability of age, and the aesthetics of nature having it’s way with the works of mankind. That’s pretty philosophical.

Well, there’s probably more to it than that, but I’ve already written too much. I reckon collections of pix are important in showing a place (not to put too much importance on any one shot), so that may be part of a philosophy. And my last point is about you, the viewer. Just as a writer is having a conversation with the reader, photographers are shining a little light into the eyes of their viewers. So what do you like? What do you see? How do you feel about it…?

Photography, Pt. 1

Picture if you will, an old wrinkly face. An old wrinkly face with character, meaning, perhaps wisdom. Is it a man or a woman, or can you tell? Are those wrinkles from a long life of smiles and laughter or grief and sorrow, or can you tell? Are they from happiness, fear, anger, worry, or hard labor in the hot sun? What do you picture? You can add a hat or some jewellery, spectacles, maybe a toothpick or cigarette, and what about the hair? Imagine.

I’ve seen some of those old folks, venerable and otherwise, but haven’t taken very many of their images. Mostly its a combination of embarrassment and respect, but it’s also laziness, being cheap (as in offering them money), and fretting over capturing a sensational shot, some profound truth, or sometimes a great notion.You know what I mean? You’ve seen those wonderful photos in National Geographic, museums, and the like.

And there might be a resplendent background, some meaningful context, added odd details, and perhaps you can tell their ethnicity, circumstances, or cultural heritage. After a long, perhaps hard, tragic, joyful life they might still be working, swinging a tool, carrying a load. Or maybe they’re with children, having fun, or showing some emotion, or juxtaposed with some newfangled contraption. Best of all, there’s a story there, captured in that moment, the narrative image that tells an epic in an instant.

So, pretend this post has those pix. The old woman in Nepal with the huge load of sticks strapped to her head. Or the little old man with his little old Nepali hat surveying the street. Or the wizened and possibly wise old ladies in Italy or India dressed up in their finest. Or the geriatric gents in Germany, the guy in the pajamas here in Vietnam, all scrutinizing their changing world. Wow. You captured that! You saw that image! You heard tell that tale of generations, hardship, joy, and maybe the meaning of life – or at least that one life.

To paraphrase Einstein, your imagination is more important than knowledge of photos.

Kathmandu, Pt. 4

On our last day in Nepal, we visited Kathy Shrestha’s place of work for almost 40 years (where she retires in June): Lincoln School – and American International School in Kathmandu.

Here Kathy is teaching a music class…

 

Then, we went to Swayambhunath, aka The Monkey Temple, on majestic hill overlooking Kathmandu…

 

 

“Buddhalicious!”  Here are a couple dozen tourist item displays in and around the Swayambhunath Temple complex…

 

A Kathmandu sunset…IMG_4914

Kathmandu, Pt. 3

Here are some vids to go with the previous posts!

On the road to Kathmandu…

Coming into town…

At the Sleeping Vishnu Temple…

Road work in Budanilkanta just outside the Sleeping Vishnu Temple…

…then took this pic after showing the road work guys that clip:

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Boudhanath…

Pashupatinath…

Outside at the Patan Museum…

Namobuddha clips…

 

Study Question:

Watch those time lapse clips one more time, then again. What can you pick out, eventually?

 

 

Namo Buddha

The Thranga Tashi Yangtse Monastery is an ancient and beautiful Tibetan Buddhist holy site also known as Namo Buddha. After three nights in Kathmandu, we drove the two hours along many a winding mountain road out to the Namo Buddha Resort to take a small hike to the monastery and enjoy the cool breezes and quiet atop one of the larger Himalayan foothills. While we were there we met 8 folks on an Intrepid tour, and we had a guide on our hike to the monastery. At the monastery we sat in an afternoon ceremony, but were not allowed to take photos inside the temple. During our hike we toured the many buildings and shrines, and learned some of the legends and history of the site. Here are some pix of the monastery, the surrounding hills, Tibetan prayer flags, some fellow travellers, and our little house in the mountains…

Here’s a pano of the Namo Buddha monastery, from the temple to the prayer flags…IMG_4873

This set of pix includes the old monastery and the old village which is adjacent to the new complex…

The food at the Namo Buddha resort was particularly outstanding & healthy…

And the next morning we were able to glimpse some of the Himalayan mountain tops in the distance. When we arrived and shortly after this pic was taken they disappear into the haze and clouds.IMG_4912

Kathmandu, Pt. 2

This post is about the same day as Kathmandu, Pt. 1…

Once refreshed, we headed to Patan’s Durbar Square and the Patan Museum. There are three Durbar Squares in Kathmandu and according to Kathy, this one’s the best. The area itself is fascinating since it is in the old part of town with many small streets and interesting shops, various temples, and intriguing buildings. The museum is located in the residential court of a royal palace and features dozens of old Buddhist artworks. Here are some pix, first of the square…

Here are some pix from the Patan Museum…

Study Questions:

  1. Check the links to Patan Durbar Square. For what is it famous? What do the pix depict?
  2. Check the links to Patan Museum. For what is it famous? What do the pix depict?
  3. Check this link about the Buddhist art. What did you learn, and how does it relate to the pix?
  4. Check this link about the history of Kathmandu. What did you learn, and how does it relate to the pix?

Kathmandu, Pt. 1

After relaxing at Shyam & Kathy’s for our first day in Kathmandu, we went out on a trip around town to visit some of the sites she recommended.

The Buddhist Stupa of Boudhanath is one of the main sites in Kathmandu. A large dome that one cannot enter, it is surrounded by several Buddhist temples and a variety of shops. There is considerable history and mythology about this stupa, one of the largest in the Buddhist world, particularly related to Tibetan Buddhism. It was damaged in the 2015 earthquake and the spire in the middle fell down. You can see the repairs are underway. We had interesting encounters with one disturbed woman and a couple very small monks. Here are some pix…

Here are some images from other temples and places around Boudhanath…

Here are some shop displays around Boudhanath…

Pashupatinath Temple was the next destination on our itinerary. Located on the Bagmati River, which flows into the Ganges, Pashupatinath is one of the most sacred Hindu temples and the site of many cremations taking place constantly. There are also monkeys and sadhus amongst the various shrines and smaller temples near the large one, which dates from the 15th century and can only be entered by practicing Hindus. A guide attached himself to us, and since he was friendly, knowledgeable, and spoke pretty good English, we went with the flow. Here are some pix (and I’ll post some clips later)…

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In addition to the temples, we saw some actual cremations. We witnessed one that had been burning for awhile, then another from the crying of relatives to the lighting of the fire…

After the intensity of Pashupatinath, we took a break for some refreshment at Dwarika’s Hotel. Famous for it’s preserved wood work, the Dwarika is a 5 star hotel with a lovely and relaxing courtyard. Just a few pix…

Since there are so many pix, I’ll put the rest of this busy day on a separate post. Again, I’ll post video clips separately.

Study Questions:

  1. Check the link to Boudhanath. For what is it famous? What do the pix depict?
  2. Check the link to Pashupatinath. For what is it famous? What do the pix depict?
  3. Check the link to Dwarika’s Hotel. For what is it famous? What do the pix depict?

Budanilkanta

My old friend Dr. Jon Amsden (old as in we go back to 1984) has a sister Kathy who lives in the outskirts of Kathmandu. She and her husband Shyam live in a beautiful house called Miraval. Here it is…

Inside…

Here’s Kathy…

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And the neighborhood…

Just below Miraval is the Sleeping Vishnu Temple. Here are some pix in and around…

More pix in the ‘hood. Some road work, evidence of the earthquake, shops near the temple, etc…

Pokhara Lakeside to Kathmandu Valley

Pokhara is Nepal’s second largest city and a very popular departure point for trekking in the Himalaya’s. Most of these pix are of shop windows in Pokhara, also the view from the Moondance Restaurant right next to our hotel and a nice tree shrine…

Pokhara has a section aptly called “Lakeside” and there were lots of boats, some going out to a little island that has another World Peace Pagoda. The road from Pokhara to Kathmandu is busier than from Lumbini to Pokhara. Again, many of these are from our car. Not only did we spend much of the drive along a river, we crossed many…

The fronts of the trucks are interesting too, but a bit harder to study. Some of these pix are about art, some about slogans or phrases, some about bamboo…

More road pix…

Our driver Raju was with us for four nights and five days all the way from the India border to Kathmandu. He was excellent, safe, efficient, and and all around nice guy. This pic is in the driveway of Miraval, the Shrestha’s house and our final destination…

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Study Questions:

  1. Research tourism in Nepal, or trekking in the Himalayas, or river rafting, mountain climbing, or other adventure sports. What did you discover?
  2. Research Pokhara and/or Kathmandu. What are the highlights of these cities? For what are they famous? What will you see/do when you visit?
  3. Research trucking in India & Nepal and/or research traffic fatalities in Asia. Now make sure you wear a seatbelt!