Laos in Translation

Here are some last images from Laos and the trip home to California. There are some video clips not previously posted (note: the interiors of sphere in the Buddha Park), and some pix taken by my fellow travelers which came into my Photos through our WhatsApp group. Its quick, click…!

This batch is all pix taken by others in our tour group. Some are quite good, and its always fun to share photos and information in a group chat…

Here are some from my last day in Vientiane, exploring & shopping. Most are from one interesting art & antique shop, but also the night market where I got some gifties & souvenirs…

This last batch of video clips are all from the plane: leaving Ho Chi Minh City, arriving back in California (our own stretch of Highway 1, etc., and patterns on the edge of the San Francisco Bay as we landed…

From Saigon to SFO, with an emphasis on Bay Area tidal patterns. Note: Palo Alto High, frost, Foster City, and winding water…

Thanks for watching. Time to take a break…

Vientiane

A morning van ride took us from Vang Vieng to Vientiane, the capital city of Laos, and the final destination of this Intrepid tour. But I’ll stay a few extra nights, thus this will be another long post!

In addition to a couple shots from the van, and one of Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe, this first batch is of Wat Si Saket, particularly old with some interesting features (note the niches). One cannot photograph the interior of the temple, but it’s detailed murals, destroyed by flooding, were restored with support from the German government! Also, the leaning pillars are supposed to indicate something about honesty…?

The little shrines (above and below) around the outside edge of most temple complexes are ornate little tombs or mini-mausoleums, usually with a picture and an epitaph. Sadly, maintenance is spotty (depends on the family) and some fall into disrepair (note the toppled one). Nonetheless, the freshly dead get freshly sculpted (with cement, plaster, & paint) shrines to themselves, as shown here…

Patuxai is the product of the French colonial influence in Laos. A walk to the top provides a history lesson and excellent views of the city (bad air quality notwithstanding). Met some nice Chinese tourists (one thought I looked like Trump so I had to set ’em straight!)…

Next we went to the COPE Visitors Center to learn some sad lessons. (Not unlike the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City!) During the Vietnam War, US taxpayers funded thousands of bombing runs and millions of tons of bombs over Laos and Cambodia, in addition to Vietnam.

Cluster bombs are particularly devasting, but the devastation has continued for decades as the Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) are discovered by the feet of farmers, children, animals, and equipment. Here is one of the videos we watched at COPE. PLEASE EXPERIENCE!

For starters, the facility has a hospital and gymnasium, so I had to check out the hoop tournament. Didn’t see disabled players, but the many prosthetic devices in the museum attest to the sad reality for thousands of Laotians, many children…

That evening we did a little walk around the neighborhood and had our farewell dinner as a tour group (St. Patrick’s Day and Alastair’s 78th birthday party). Note Emmy, our outstanding tour leader!

We said our goodbyes at breakfast the next morning, then I switched hotels for the rest of my extended stay in Vientiane. (Really liked the colorful fish in the decorative aquaculture pots!)

The heat has been particularly oppressive, but I managed a walkabout anyway. Unfortunately, the mighty Mekong is not the feature it should be, apparently diminished by a hydroelectric dam upstream? Consequently, you can hardly see it from the popular part of Vientiane, a huge sandbar and poor infrastructure in between.

But I wandered through a park, took in a monument or two, and went to the Ho Prah Keo Museum. Amazingly, the Emerald Buddha which I had seen in Bangkok had lived here for over two centuries before it was absconded. I found the local art and detailed wood carving more significant than that lil’ statuette…

On my own, I like meandering through the streets, hunting the obscurata. Mazes of phone/power lines, scooter scrabble, and you can’t go wrong in the food markets. Squid-cabobs, shrimp scampering, meat miscellany, baked crocodile, etc. Fun signage! And check out our attractive pool here at the New Champa Boutique Hotel…!

On my first full free day I commissioned Tungchai – a “stories man,” whose ad I saw, to take me to the Buddha Park. He was a bit late and had a Russian tourist with him, but it all worked out swimmingly.

Here’s his ad, then the Beerlao plant which he pointed out on the way, and him and her. The Buddha Park was worth the trip, but like other spots, needing more TLC than it’s getting…

A floral interlude. Not only were they around the park, there seemed to be an aspiring botanical garden just adjacent…

Another sort of interlude. I walked all the way to the end which overlooks the Mekong River. There were some good looking farm fields, and across the river, Thailand!

More of the Buddha Park, which started a year before my birth (thus the arthritis?). Delight, as I did, in the statuary…!

Yes, I crawled into the sphere and scrambled up the various steps of this three story structure to the top, where one can get the big picture. Back to Tungchai’s tuktuk and off to the Golden Stupa…

Some kinda government building, the entrance, some paintings within, and at the end of this batch a few pix of the actual Golden Stupa

In fact, the ancient statuary here, and the rest of the Pha That Luang temple complex are much more compelling. More colorful than average, and there was also a spectacular pavillion with an ornately painted ceiling, among the many sites to see…

I lingered, looked in nooks & crannies, unhurried. Interesting roosters, monk activity (including actual sculpting), and more tombs for the faithful.

Incredibly, I walked all the way back to my hotel! It was not as hot as previously, and the predicted thunder showers didn’t arrive until evening…

As I write this, I’m lingering again, procrastinating writing, and planning a very simple day before my departure tomorrow. This post is already too long, so whatever comes next will come next…

To whomever might have come this far, thank you. Blessings…

Vang Vieng

After three nights in Luang Prabang, we took a train ride to get to Vang Vieng, which may lack the UNESCO charm of Luang Prabang, but makes up for it with a bunch of exciting adventure sports. Sorry no pic of the train – which was pretty deluxe. Here’s the station, inside, and looking out…

Nice hotel, with a pool, on the river, sunset views over the majestic mountains, and the armada of boats testified to the fun. I signed up for almost everything the next day: caving in tubes, zip lines, kayaking, a visit to “Blue Lagoon” #1, with lunch included (and less than $25!). I could have also done mud buggy driving, motor boating, motorized hang gliders, mountain climbing, or hot air ballooning. Next time…?

A tuktuk took our random little group of tourists to the cave entrance, and an area that had a lot going on (zip lines, kayaking, etc.)..We were given dry bags, life vests, head lamps, and an inner tube. After the initial shock of the somewhat cold water, we pulled ourselves on a fixed rope into the cave floating a few hundred yards into the mountain. After we reemerged, we drove a ways to another cave, “Elephant Cave” (can you find the pic?), which is another spelunkable Buddhist shrine…

Then we drove to another area, that also had a lot going on, for some zip lining. After slogging up a rather steep dirt road, we started the first of over half a dozen zip lines, a couple of rather sketchy cable bridges, and some guaranteed exhilaration…

After zip lining, we had lunch: fried rice, chicken satay with veggies, and bread. Nice chat with an Aussie named Matt (also nice chats in the tuktuk with other fellow travelers). Then, we hopped on tandem kayaks and headed down the river, which in fact included a few rapids. We landed at a beach with lots of kids playing and a guy washing his scooter. Good times…

Back in the tuktuk, we drove to Blue Lagoon #1, an overcrowded swimming hole complete with a high dive, lots of fish, and many eating & drinking opportunities. Ran into part of our tour group, so they watch my stuff while I took a swim and a jump off the high dive. Interested to know what the other Blue Lagoons around Vang Vieng are like…? This batch included a sleeping kid, a giant crab sculpture, a cool tractormobile, and views of the lovely mountains…

Finally, some video clips: two of my fellow zip liners, the drop at the end, kayaking on the river, and the fish at the Blue Lagoon…

Tomorrow we head to our final destination on this Intrepid tour: Vientiene…

Luang Prabang

After two days on the Mekong River, we arrived in Luang Prabang, the former capital of Laos, and a UNESCO Heritage Site. We took an initial walk around town, visited the night market street, and got a first taste of this cool town. I took a long night walk around the “peninsula” – a strip of land between two rivers and sort of the city center…

(Note the peninsula on the map!)

The next day we kind of did the same thing with our Lao guide, Sak. As with the previous night, some of the food items were on the exotic side: insects, reptiles, fish, pink eggs, various animal body parts, exotic fruits, and banana-leaf-wrapped Laotian concoctions. There’s a whole bunch of art and artisan crafts, in addition to some generic tourist souvenirs.

(Note the political coffee shop.)…

A varied batch: more market shots, a visit to a nearby Buddhist temple, our Laotian guide Sak, and our trip to the waterfall with a stop off at a roadside buffalo ice cream shop. It ends with some fried silk worm cocoons and crickets (yum!)…

Here’s Sak again showing us the trails around the Kuang Si waterfalls and swimming pools. There are also some bears there, among the lovely jungles, and a bunch o’ fish

The lush water park continues with a water wheel, big trees, nice flowers, random people having lunch, Stuart in the water, more bears, etc…

Later that day we went to a silk/cotton, weaving, and textiles artisan crafts place that had a groovy treehouse and a great view on the banks of the Mekong. Ended the day with dinner and eventually a drink at the rooftop bar looking over the night market…

The next morning we were up and off to the Mandalao Elephant Conservation Sanctuary. After a talk about elephant conservation and the state of the species in Laos, we put on special boots, crossed the river by boat, and went to interact with the elephants. We fed them and took a walk with them. It was a great, up-close-and-personal experience…

I’m not sure what was more fun, feeding them crap tons of bananas or walking around together. They were very relaxed and seemingly friendly. Also some shots of tarantula nests and a big bug. We concluded our love fest, took the boat back across the river, and had a nice lunch at Mandalao

After a nap, I headed out to the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre – small, but well appointed…

After that, I tried to go to the National Museum, but it was closed, so I checked out another temple, then took another stroll along the river – better than the first time because it was still daylight. Check out the Obama Coconut Shop (he visited to much aclaim)…

While the views along the river were great, I then hike to the top of Phousi Hill to experience more Buddhist shrines and the crowd of people there to experience the sunset. After a quick dinner, I came back to the hotel for our third and last night in Luang Prabang, and to post this!

Here are some video clips from our time hangin’ out with the elephants…

On our last morning in Luang Prabang, we got up quite early (5:00am) and went to participate in the daily ritual offering alms (a little rice) to monks. After that I finally made it to the National Museum, but they do not allow any photography (not a huge tragedy as it was rather underwhelming). I went for yet another river walk, then took a tuktuk back to the hotel – note the time lapse video clip…

Next, we will take a train to our next destination: Vang Vieng

Chiangs Rai & Khong, and down the Mekong

Sunday morning, we left Chiang Mai and drove to The White Temple, in the vicinity of Chiang Rai. It is quite spectacular! Unlike other temples that are public, this one is a private art project, but equally reverent in its devout respect for Buddhism and for King Rama IX, AKA Bhumibol Adulyadej. Created by Chalermchai Kositpipat, a professor and prolific artist (the Gaudi of Thailand?), there is also a gallery of his work, and the other buildings in Wat Rong Khun seem like they are prepped to have the same kind of elaborate decorations added to them over time. He is a new addition in my growing list of favorites artists…

In addition to the temple, there were many other buildings and a man-made mountain of waterfalls, plants, and sculptures (including “the Cave of Art”)…

Further, there are a bunch of little face sculptures, other statues, and contemporary paintings. As mentioned, in addition to celebrating Buddhism, the entire facility honors King Rama IX. The lost & found cabinets were interesting. Perhaps the most deluxe bathroom facility is there in gold…

After lunch near the White Temple, we pushed on to Chiang Khong, a rather sleepy border town on the banks of Mekong River (the border between Thailand & Laos). We had a great view of the Mekong from our hotel, and I took a little walk along the bike path next to the river. This batch is all pix from that stroll…

The next morning, we woke to a sunrise over the Mekong, had breakfast, then went to the border and crossed into Laos. A short drive took us to our boat, and we headed down the Mekong for the first of two days on the river…

A couple clips: first drive in Laos, and first stretch of the river…

Various shots along the Mekong River, and our stop for the night at Pak Beng, including a couple more clips: nice fellow boaters, battling water buffalo…

In Pak Beng, we took a walk through town to the market place. These shots include ant eggs, live frogs, dried rats, water buffalo parts, and various veggies, etc. Kids, a local temple, and various views of the river. The green building features American bombs from the Vietnam War used as building materials! And this batch ends with our group and some other fellow travelers reveling at the “Happy Bar” in Pak Beng…

Here are some shots of our second day on the river, starting in Pak Beng and ending in Luang Prabang.

Our one stop was at the Pak Ou Caves near where the Ou River merges with the Mekong. They are Buddhist shrines with a great view of the river…

Riding on the river, and a few last shots before we arrived in Luang Prabang

I know, another long post, but I’m gonna add some other pix from my fellow travelers that they’ve added on our Whats App group. Cheers…

Chiang Mai

We woke on the train to a hazy sunrise through a dry jungle (proof). We were shuttled to our hotel for a freshening up before our next excursion, but I did a quick looksee down at the river first (and saw a guy getting a traffic ticket)…

Mid morning, we again hopped in the vans and drove out of town and up the mountains to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, perhaps one of the more fun Buddhist temples. Fun, because there were several activities predictive of our lives and stimulating our luck. Like others, there were many great works of art…

In addition to the art, there was a little more nature since we were up on the mountain. Unfortunately, the smog prevented much of view. But, exiting through the gift shop, as we are want to do, I again enjoyed the vast collections of Buddhists trinkets and amulets…

We got back to the hotel, then I did another little tuktuk ride and walk around with Kundry & Alastair in the old city. This batch ends with two pix of our group: the gals & the guys…

The next day was a full free day to choose our own activities, so of course I got a slow start. Eventually however, I made it out of the hotel, took a tuktuk back to the old city and visited four different museums. The first was the Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center. Interestingly, there was a group of local kids on a field trip so we had a couple fun interactions and it was great to see Thai students learning about their country…

Right across the street was the Lanna Folklife Museum. Similarly great presentation, but a separate ticket. The same group of students followed me across the street and I had a nice chat with the kid in the hat. Lots about artisan crafts, but I wondered about that rather sexy statue…

If you didn’t already know, there are a great many Buddhist temples or “Wats” and especially in the old city. I hung out at this one talking to I guy from Phuket, and taking another batch of pix…

The next museum I went to was about the Treasury – money – and while no one else was there, it was quite good. I thought this would be particularly relevant to the student group…

After some refreshment, I went to the largest and oldest temples in the center of the old city of Chiang Mai, Wat Chedi Luang. The stupa was particularly huge, like an ancient pyramid. Along with other common features of Buddhist temple complexes, this one had several lifelike wax figures of local enlightened monks ensconced in glass cases…

In addition, the Wat Cheti Luang complex has a museum of Buddhist manuscripts. I went to the top of the building in the first pic, and it has several cabinets filled with books and documents. “Monk Chats” is another interesting feature. I had a brief conversation with one young monk. He seemed bright and educated, but young and inexperienced, obviously putting way too much faith in Buddhism to answer all his questions. While I have more reverence for Buddhism than other faith traditions, like all religions, it stuck deeply in doctrine and dogma. Having now wandered through quite a number of temples, shrines, and now museums, I find them stultified by the narrative. Nonetheless, the art is very cool…

After freshening up in the hotel, the group met in the lobby to go to the Saturday night market. We walked the length, and you can get a taste of it in the time lapse. The best part was the school girl busker whose sweet voice was a profound counterpoint to the hustle and bustle all around her…

Later that evening, the group met again to go to the Chiang Mai Caberet, a fun, high energy drag show featuring some ladyboys, etc. While definitely lurid and lascivious, it was very entertaining, often funny, and more than worth the price of admission…

That was it for Chiang Mai. We were up and away early the next morning…

กรุงเทพ ตอนที่ 2 (Bangkok, Part 2)

My first full day in Thailand started slowly, taking advantage of a late check-out time, before officially starting my Intrepid tour. I transferred to my new room (same hotel), coincidentally met our tour leader Emmy, then set out on a swelteringly hot day for a classic tourist destination: the Grand Palace.

This batch includes several pix of the enormous painted panels, the sparkling gold brocade architecture, and the Emerald Buddha, an actually very small statue surrounded by sumptuous decorations, and obviously revered by my fellow visitors. All of this is just a rather small part of a huge complex…

This batch includes pix from the Museum at the Grand Palace, a separate textiles & fashion museum, and some orchids…

The heat is hot for everyone! But riding a tuk tuk can cool you off! That’s how I got to Khao San Road, near the Palace, and a tourist spot that ML & I missed when we were here 25 years ago, and still rather missable. Nonetheless, I had a pleasant moment at a nice eatery (My Darling?), and bought some shades. Note the silver store, canals, shrimp, and some night life on the streets following our first tour dinner…

Our first excursion as a group was a boat ride on some of the canals of Bangkok. Interesting passage through a lock, fish feeding, and life on the water. Check the clips…!

Next, we went to visit the Reclining Buddha complex. Whereas the Emerald Buddha was actually quite small, the Reclining Buddha is huge – half a football field inside a decorative building. While one is not supposed to show the bottoms of one’s feet to the Buddha while praying at a shrine, the bottoms of the Reclining Buddha’s feet are spectacularly decorated with inlayed mother of pearl. Note the shrines, intricate wall paintings, and the guard statues…

The complex is vast, and challenges the Grand Palace for coolness (even on a hot day). The time lapse is of only part of the perimeter wall lined with golden buddhas. In addition to the Reclining Buddha, there are 99 pagodas, myriad shrines & temples, Chinese garden islands, and a museum dedicated to Thai massage (historically related to the site)…

Next, we went to the Flower Market, and the adjacent veggie market (tho’ the first pic is of Ron candy and the second to last is of shark fins for soup). Lots of marigolds and orchids, many for religious offerings. This batch includes a shrine to the patron saint of the market, and ends with a sincere young man who really wanted his picture taken. Voila…

Later that day, we made our way across town to the enormous Bangkok train station and got on the overnight to Chiang Mai. Time lapse and pix of city at dusk, and night from the upper bunk…

Next: Chiang Mai

“SEA Change” ~ Thailand & Laos (กรุงเทพ ตอนที่ 1)

Friends, perhaps I’ve become disenamored of my titling protocols – Parts 1, 2, 3…? I don’t really mean Sea Change; I mean now I’m in South East Asia, specifically Bangkok, about to take another Intrepid tour: the Thailand & Laos Adventure.

And, just like I’ll never have a February 12th, I’ll never have a March 4th in 2024. Thus did I take a midnight flight from SFO to Taipei and onto Bangkok, where I had a pretty full March 5th. Beginnings: plane ride, cash exchange/phone SIM at airport, funky bits in Bangkok’s Chinatown, but first a couple of airport clips…

The nearby Wat Traimit Withayaram Worawihan (Golden Buddha) Temple, just from the outside unfortunately (closed for the day). Interesting anti-tattoo sign, etc. Some shots of the Chao Phraya River, and a pigeon…

The Talut Noi neighborhood, with tree shrines, some old buildings, auto parts, graffiti art, and alleyways…

More funky old alleyways with cats, art, shrines, patterns, odd juxtapositions, and random glimpses of Bangkok. Note the river side gathering. The last couple are proof that the rather dirty looking river can support life: Huge catfish came when I nice lady fed them some bread (check the clip!)…

Eventually, I came upon the amazing River City, a multi-story mall of galleries of art and antiques. It is a vast labyrinth of coolness, amazing objects, and interesting photo opportunities. What can you find…?

Go back and look at the last batch. Zoom in. Appreciate the artistry. There’s so much, it’s overwhelming. Christians have the madonna & child, Muslims their geometric designs, and here in Thailand, Buddhas are everywhere/everything…

Anywayz, more of the river where I had an OK dinner, the walk back, more street art, and a lovely dragon sculpture at my hotel made entirely of recycled materials. Hotel by TukTuk…!

That was just my first day after I got off the plane, but it’s enough. I write this having had another eventful day of site seeing, met my new tour group, and will see more of Bangkok tomorrow. In the late afternoon we will board an overnight train for Chiang Mai. Of course I’ll share when I can, but before that, go back and look again…

Homestyle, Part 1?

About that title: I dunno, I’m home between trips, and I love it, and here are some random pix & vids from before & after New Zealand – including Christmas & New Year. There’s some repetition in my myriad nature excursions hereabouts, but every day is different, every hour or second, every angle, everything that comes next is new. No?

That may be why I’m including more & similar pix. Believe me, I cut, edit, sift, parse, curate, and leave out much more than I put in. But sometimes, it’s good to stereoscope, triangulate, and provide a bit more than the one crucial shot. Providence provides, thus do I aspire…

Perhaps, my rare reader/viewer, you’ve noticed that my logo for randomvail is now mating banana slugs. They provide a yin/yang symbol; dirty, spineless hermaphrodites defining the cosmos; truth from slime? In any case, here’s a timelapse of tenderness in the woods (and don’t miss another slug clip at the end!)…

Is it not also tenderness that floats a bird on the air? Tenderness, and epochs of evolution showing the love of life on earth? Here are some pelicans adding to the light, the clouds, the wind, the waves, and an extended ephemeral, yet constant, moment of beauty…

This batch starts with my local beach, San Gregorio to the west, and some stops along the 35, Skyline, to the east. Then, it goes to the hills above Pie Ranch with views of Año Nuevo Island, and some scratchings on the equipment at the top…

This batch starts out with Mary Lynn’s Book Club at the December ’23 meeting, then to Burleigh Murray, deer frolicking with turkeys, ML’s Winter Concert, Christmas itself, and lovely desserts brought by Nancy.

It moves on to another sunset, the art of mud & people (& animals), the annual Vida Verde solstice event, Veronica’s “Great Awakening” poster (hope this one ain’t like those in USH!), and I “saw” something…

Dawn Tyler & ML (sisters from another mister) on their way to a breathing retreat in Sedona, Arizona. A great picture by Ash (my Art successor), cows on a path, and the moon on the horizon…

Totally beachin’…

Some signage at Pie Ranch…

A weird batch. First up: peer pressure, the Joneses, or all “should” in the hood? Then, three pix of a persistent rainbow on the way to SFO, and two pix of artwork there. Ya can’t make this $%@&# up!

Amazingly, when our flight to Mammoth was canceled, we were rerouted to Denver so we could make it to Bishop the next day (Tues. v. Thurs.!) So, these pix aren’t just over the Sierras, they’re also over the Rockies – and over mysterious holes in the ground and other geological markings…

Finally made it to Mammoth, the MMI, great snow, parking lot coyotes, the Minarets, and the summit…

Here’s a fun time lapse from a gondola ride all the way to the top…

Also amazingly, the gondola station at the top of Mammoth now has an “Interpretive Center” (AKA a museum), which is outstanding. Went there more than once as you can see, met Phil the curator, and learned a bunch – in addition to having some slammin’ slides on the slopes…

We started with videos, so let’s end with some: skiing, flying over Yosemite (can you see Half Dome?), and landing back at SFO. Stay tuned to RandomV for more adventures soon. Carvaciously yours…

And one more in the “News of the Weird” category. The “slugder” or “spidug”? You decide…

Next up: SEAsia…