After a month or so in Northern Europe (and two Intrepid tours) I had two more nights, one each in Tallinn and Helsinki with a fun ferry trip in between. Before leaving the Baltics, I had some time to do some shopping, so I took a walk out of the old town.

Amber is a popular souvenir, but when I saw how perfect and how many and large the insects were ensconced in this organic gemstone, I got suspicious about their legitimacy. (Fake bug amber?) The rest of the pix are just walking about, and look how small my second Tallinn hotel room was…

At a vintage clothing shop in a newish repurposed shopping area I found a bunch of great collage, montage, assemblage artworks. Had to snap ’em all…! (Here’s the artist’s website.)

I also found a great old collection of stuff in “Jaan’s” consignment shop. After a long conversation learning about Russian Orthodox church icons (which he seemed to specialize in), I bought one. It was a fun experience. And these pix themselves depict the collage, montage, assemblage collections of artifacts in an old antique dealer’s display cases. (Not unlike Istanbul!) Jaan & the icon are in the middle of this batch. Note the Putin pix…

Then, I explored some of the other stores and found more amazing collections of Estonian, Baltic, and Russian artifacts. From “Frida” I bought some other giftie items. She showed me where to look to ascertain the silver and gold content of rings…

Later that day Ted & I met up with his college friend Jeff, who has been living in Tallinn for 20 years. He got a PhD in Tourism doing his dissertation on European backpacking! Who knew?

Anyway, he showed us around the cool neighborhood adjacent to the old town (and where I’d already been shopping), as well as visiting his apartment.

It was great to get the inside scoop from a local. Later, we went to a coffee shop and were joined by a friend of his Taz, who lives in Prague, but prefers hanging out in Tallinn.

More pix of this artsy district…

It was great to have a roommate with whom I had so much in common. We had both been ski bums in Aspen, both been English teachers in Japan, and both had the same taste in travel. An economist for the the Aussie government in Canberra, we had many interesting conversations about the world situation, altho’ not always agreeing on political issues.

A successful guy, I was impressed that he was able to slum it in youth hostels and absolutely loved taking walking tours around cities. He’d been in Europe several weeks before we met on the Intrepid tour, and by the time we both went home on the same day – different airlines – he had signed up for and taken over 20 walking tours, sometimes several in one city. Look out trivia contests!

Further, weeks earlier, Ted & I had booked the same ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki, so the next day that’s where we went. (I took a pic of the “Happy Joe” cider tap because the day before Biden had dropped out of the 2024 presidential race and I was feeling sentimental.)

Back in Helsinki, I stayed at a different hotel, the “Hobo,” and it was great! Did a little more walking about, met Ted for one last great dinner at an obscure Georgian restaurant, and flew home via Frankfurt the next day…

The route from Frankfurt to San Francisco went over Greenland, and I got to get more than a few shots of that amazing place.

I don’t have anything to compare my pix to, but I’ll bet global climate change has uncovered some rocks and diminished some glaciers…? 🙁

Happy to report that I made it home safe & sound. No glitches, cancelations, missed connections, thefts, losses, or mishaps. And, it’s great to be back home in California…

Thanks for your time & attention!

After another rather long travel day, albeit on a well-equipped bus, we arrived in Tallinn and Ance took us on a walkabout. As mentioned in my last post, Estonia is almost more related to Finland (linguistically at least), but shares a distain for Russia as much as the other Baltic countries.

In this first batch, once you get past an old map of the country, and Old Thomas (who was a good archer) a top the City Hall spire, you come to the Russian Embassy in Tallinn and the many messages left outside for the Russian officials to read. The people are not pleased! In particular, they are very worried about what is happening in Ukraine, and that they could be next,,,?

There are stories that go with some of these pix, but I don’t remember them. Mostly, there just things I thought would make a good photo. But here’s the story of the Three Monks. And, while there are still many churches, apparently, according to our guide, the majority of Estonians are atheists. Near the end of this batch there’s a wall sculpture representing an Estonian breaking through the Iron Curtain, and I should be able to explain the whole story. But it is complicated…

This batch starts out with a pic of my roommate on this trip, Ted. He’s an economist from Australia and has been great to talk to! There are also some nice views of the the city and our tour leader Ance pointing things out. Near the end, I’ve drawn others into my ceiling selfie concept – Linda from New Jersey, and Ted with Zach & Natalie from Texas. (We found another Ukrainian cherry liqueur shop.)

One shop window and a bunch of sunset shots from another tall ex-Soviet hotel. One shot of a karaoke bar, but I didn’t stay to sing. Long day…

The next day, we took a vintage Soviet-era tram to the very large Kadriorg Park, just outside the old town, and visited a former palace of Peter the Great which now houses an Art Museum. Rather old and quite traditional paintings – and a few Picassos…

More of the museum – mostly stuff I’m drawn to, but the first framed painting is a Picasso. The last four pix come from a storage room of sculptures next to the toilets. One of the most interesting rooms in the whole building, altho’ the majestic ceiling in the ballroom may sway others…

After that, we strolled in the garden where preparations for a “Flower Ball” were being made. Note Ted with one of the flower belles. Anyway, went back to the hotel for a nap before our farewell dinner…

On our last night we had a “classic Baltic” dinner at the Old Hansa. The next day breakfast marked the end of our tour, but I had one more night in a different hotel. The walk there involved some classic medieval village sites and a passageway that includes a timeline of Tallinn history that goes into the future…

After checking into my new hotel (Meriton Garden), I walked over to the “Fat Margaret” an ancient tower turned into an Estonian maritime museum…

On the way from Fat Margaret to the Estonian History Museum, I stopped by a Ukranian support shop, and took in a few more sites of course…

This last batch features some pix of the Estonian History Museum, and ends with the Goofy Wiener Dog Bench…

Well, that’s enough of that. I stayed longer in Tallinn, then went to Helsinki, but I’ll save the rest for a conclusion post. Thanks again…!

After two nights in Riga, we headed for the step sister of the three Baltic countries, Estonia. I say that because while Lithuania and Latvia are linguistically related, Estonian is related to Finnish, and both are separate from other European languages.

Another nice feature of Intepid tours is the effort to connect with nature. Thus, we had on our itinerary a visit to Saaremaa Island and a stay in a log cabin – “a cozy locally-owned property, surrounded by forests – a lovely spot to unplug after a few days of city escapades.”

This batch shows our ferry ride and a stop at the Kaali Meteor Crater, at 3500 years old, one of the most impact craters on Earth. Yes, I took several shots as a circumnavigated it, including the pano with fellow travelers Zach & Natalie…

Here’s me geekin’ on maps, including our accommodations, which included all kinds of play equipment – and a well appointed swimming pool which was used. Thus, unfortunately, I did not make the short trip into the nearby small town to visit a local castle. The next day we were off again, back on the ferry, and headed towards Tallinn…

Only a one night stop means an amazingly short post. Stay tuned for more Estonia…

The bus ride from Vilnius Lithuania to Riga Latvia was over four hours, but like an airplane, it had movies! One double feature and we were there. Ance, our tour leader, is Latvian, so she was in her element in our three-hour walk around the city. First up, one of many churches, the market place, and one of the many parks in and around Riga…

Unlike Scandinavia, that largely adopted Lutheranism following the Protestant Reformation, the Baltics are predominantly Catholic. (However, the Lutheran churches can be determined by a rooster v. a cross atop the steeples!) Thus, I checked out more than a couple of churches & cathedrals.

Here’s the rest of our first walk around Riga – famous for its architecture, and here’s just a sample. Afterwards, some of us went to a Ukranian cherry vodka shop with a tradition of no-handed sipping before adding the actual cherries!

A musical interlude – busking trio in Riga…

The next day, after sleeping in, I went to the “Corner House” – a KGB tour/museum that I’d signed up for on day one. During Soviet times, when the Baltics were part of the USSR, the Corner House was used as a prison for those accused of opposing or working against the Soviet Union.

After leaving the KGB’s Corner House, I walked to the Art Nouveau Museum – past some excellent examples of the genre. Inside, in addition to a digital explanation of the architectural history of Riga, was an apartment decorated in Art Nouveau style…

Next, I went to the Latvian National Art Museum in Riga. Going to the terrace on the roof, I got a great view of the city, then worked my down through the exhibits. First, there was some modern art in the attic. Further down, were some of the best, most classic works of Latvian artists…

In the basement of the museum was a special exhibit, “In the Name of Desire.” It required a separate ticket and was on the racy side. Also, there was a huge art storage room. Check it out…

Here’s a last batch of pix around Riga, including more churches, architecture, and a fun dinner with the group, which included some Latvian folk dancing.

Next, we’re heading to Estonia…

On Bastille Day (July 14, 2024), I flew from Helsinki Finland to Vilnius Lithuania. There, I hopped on a bus (sans billet) and eventually made it to the hotel, checked in, then took a walk around town before meeting my new Intrepid group at 6:00, a full house (12) of fellow travelers. Love the time lapse…

Walking around Vilnius, its evident that we aren’t in Scandinavia anymore. Not just the standard of living, but the religious culture. I went from Lutheran Protestantism to old world Catholicism – perhaps there’s a lesson there (and more than one!)? Note the airplane shot and the map, etc…

In spite of the religious politics, I love me some cathedrals. The art and the architecture, if not the free thinking, can be nonetheless inspiring. This batch includes the local castle and a couple kayaking on the adjacent river. More than one town square hereabouts…

More of day one in Vilnius. This batch begins with a worried worshipper, shows more of the prominent or iconic buildings in the old town, and ends with some of our tour group…

How about some church music to go with the ambiance…?

The next day we spent the morning with a local guide walking us around the city. Here’s just a sampling…

Perhaps the most compelling stop on our walk was a visit to the Republic of Uzupis, a semi-autonomous (but not semi-sarcastic) neighborhood in Vilnius. In 1997, a group of comedic artists established their – then rather crappy – ‘hood as a “free state” with its own constitution and officials that meet regularly in the “barliament.” The area has been protected by the city government because they are a significant arts community…

In fact, I was so impressed that after our walking tour I went back to examine the area and their constitution in more detail. They’ve translated and posted it in many languages! Here’s more of the Republic of Uzupis…

After that, based on a recommendation from my fellow traveler and roommate Ted, I went to the Mo Museum. Here are some pix in and around (check out the explanations of the exhibits)…

Here are a few supplemental pix around Vilnius, including my visit to the “Garden of Ideas” – apparently you have to bring your own…

Next: Riga Latvia…

After a lovely evening traveling through a Swedish archipelago on our way out of Stockholm, we slept in our cabin on the Gabriella, awoke to a great breakfast, and our arrival in Helsinki. After a tram ride, we dropped our luggage off at our hotel, and Marichka took us for a walk around town. Some iconic spots…

Next to Senate Square (shown above) is the free Helsinki museum. Among other things, it addresses Finlands famous education system (but it wasn’t always so free)…

Fun Fact: see the odd car on the Helsinki Skywheel? Its a sauna! This batch also includes Uspenski Cathedral, the harbor, the Esplanade, and other stuff I thought looked cool. (Best manhole covers in Scandinavia?)

After breakfast the next day, our tour officially ended. Our guide/leader Marichka went back home to Kiev. Steve, the only one who’d been with us since Copenhagen, continued to the Baltics – with Intrepid, but a different tour than I’m taking. Craig is also doing the Baltics on his own, and Sue was off to British/Irish connections.

ML & I did laundry, got her a new suitcase, and in the afternoon, took the ferry to Suomenlinna, a former defensive/military archipelago, now UNESCO World Heritage site. In addition to the former military facilities and residences, it features a variety of museums, cafe/restaurants, and picnic spots…

This last batch shows a deluxe metro potty, the outside of the “Rock Church,” some local art & music, a few repeat shots, and architectural appreciation. Helsinki had been rather foggy and Soviet when we arrived, but proved a wonderful ending to our Scandinavian trip…

I’ll wrap it up with some music clips around Helsinki: a military band in Senate Square, an accordian soloist on the Esplanade, and some young rockin’ buskers near the Church of Silence…?

As I post this, I’m waiting at the Helsinki airport for my flight to Vilnius to pick up “Classic Baltics” Intrepid trip, but I’ll be back to fly outta here in a little over a week. Reckon there oughta be some other posts by then. Thanks for checking ’em out…

After short, lovely train ride, we arrived in Stockholm. After checking into our hotel, we went for a walk around town. This batch includes Drottninggatan, a long pedestrian street, sites along the way, some of the art down in one of the metro stations, and various attractive vistas…

This batch includes more prominent historical/cultural features, including the Royal Palace, government buildings; in and around the Old Town, including the narrowest street, and other cool stuff…

In Gamla Stan, one finds the Nobel Prize Museum, so I went. Interesting collection of items, but could have been so much better – explaining the subjects, the people, their discoveries, and their impacts…

More pix of my walk back to the hotel…

The next day we went to visit Stockholm City Hall, an impressive building with an interesting history. For example the “Blue Hall” is basically brick red, why? It features paintings by a Prince, and an amazing “Golden Room” of amazing mosaics. This is where the Nobel Prize party takes place every year…!

Then, we power walked to ferry to go out to Kungliga Djurgården and visit the Viking Museum…

Next, we went to the ABBA Museum…

ML went shopping, and I went to the Swedish Royal Palace. Again, overwhelmed, although it ain’t much from the outside. This batch just includes the Royal Apartments…

Still in the Royal Palace, this batch includes two more museums in the basement, including the Treasury and some of Sweden’s crown jewels…

Before heading back to the hotel, I checked out a couple of antique shops in the old town…

On our last day in Sweden, we went to the Vasa Museum to see the huge ship that sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628, and stayed in the frigid and anaerobic water off Stockholm for over 300 years. Fascinating story, amazing site, great museum…

Adjacent to the Vasa Museum is the Nordic Museum, said to be the most beautiful building in Stockholm, it is the brainchild of one man, Artur Hazelius. As we were pressed for time, I only visited a couple exhibits on the lower floors…

That afternoon, we headed to the port to take a ferry (on the huge Viking Line cruise ship Gabriela). It was a beautiful evening sailing out of Sweden. An overnighter, we slept in a cabin, awakening in Finland. After a lovely breakfast, we disembarked in Helsinki…

This last batch is of the archipelago of Swedish islands we cruised through at sunset before crossing the northern Baltic Sea to Finland…

I’ll finish with one timelapse from the ship…

Tak tak.

After two nights in beautiful Lillehammer (and the weather was great, but we didn’t make it to the Olympic facilities nor the local Art Museum), we took a private van to the lake district in Sweden, specifically Siljan Lake in the village of Tällberg near the town of Rättvik in Dalarna county. We stayed at the Villa Langbers, a country inn at the top of a hill overlooking the lake.

After a long travel day getting there, we took a local tour the next day learning about the region. We went to a church and learned about the church boat they took there by lake travel and the little horse stables for those arriving by land travel. We learned more about Linnaeus, and explored the church area…

Next, we went to an old ceramics factory that’s been around for generations…

Eventually, we went for a picnic lunch near an old rock quarry out in the woods. After our tour, most of us went for a sauna on a floating building in the lake. It was great! After baking in the sauna for a while, we took a swim in the lake – over & over. Surprisingly, it was not that cold and I was able to swim quite a distance out into the lake. (Note Steve rescuing a guy’s remote controlled plane.). It was a lovely experience on a beautiful day…

Later that day, four of us walked down to a lovely restaurant in Tallberg with a spectacular view of the lake. The next morning, we were taken to the charming little train station for two trips that eventually got us to Stockholm.

Here are a couple clips: walking in the woods and riding on the train…

Next up: Stockholm!

This first batch starts out with the pix of others, namely our tour leader Marichka. Then, just a couple from our bus ride from Gudvangen to Lillehammer. The last, a painting in our Lillehammer hotel…

Lillehammer is famous for hosting the Winter Olympics in 1994. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to the Olympic village there, nor the Art Museum, but we did go to Maihaugen.

Basically, a house museum, but much more and one of most amazing exhibits I’ve seen, Maihaugen is the brain child of Anders Sandvig who collected farm houses. He eventually relocated all of them to this site, which has continued to expand the purchase of various houses representing difference eras (including every decade of the 20th century. You can walk into many of them and they are full of artifacts from that time. Not only that, but in some of them people are dressed in period costumes and will explain things about the place and time.

This first batch starts with a couple places on the way to Maihaugen: the statue of a guy who saved the king, the Lillehammer Art Museum, and the church. In fact, at Maihaugen we started with a church which included an explanation of religion, before and after the Protestant Reformation, by our guide.

Our guide then turned into a school teacher, taking us to the one room schoolhouse. We continued on to a number of farm houses, barns, stables, and related buildings – all having been disassembled and moved to this location. Note the dates the kids had carved into their desks…

In addition to people (note the woman handing me some homemade Norwegian cheese), the place has many animals – horses, goats, cows, sheep, chickens, ducks, etc. Many pix are of the rooms with authentic furniture and artifacts. Note the inscription on one that was built in 1786 then rebuilt in 1858…

Moving from the rural (and older) section, we went through the various houses of the 20th century, and an entire village from the 19th century…

In this batch, not the actors walking on stilts, and one who demonstrated the work of early pharmacists. The facility also included a Postal Museum with every related artifact you can imagine…

Finally, Maihaugen also includes an Olympic museum, not just featuring the Winter Olympics in 1994, but the Olympic games in general. Afterwards, we strolled around the town, and went to a special restaurant featuring wild meats in the evening…

Lots more here in Lillehammer, but we’re off again today. Cheers…

After two nights in Bergen, we took a short bus ride to Gudvangen, a village at the end of one of Norway’s many fjords. Some pix along that route…

We stayed in cabins at a campground just outside of town, very much glamping what with all the amenities (note our cabin). Upon arriving, we walked into town, then Marichka, Steve, & I hiked almost 10K roundtrip to the tiny hamlet of Bakka set along the fjord we would boat through the next day…

The next day we – and it was only our little group of six – boarded the “Lady Elisabeth” (named in honor of one of my only followers and an HGM Mom of merit?!) and glided up the Naeroyfjord to the well-appointed tourist town of Flam. A mild & majestic morning…

Here are some short clips…

Along the way, our lovely leader Marichka presented ML & I (and our group) with a cake in honor of our 25th wedding anniversary – and the reason we are on this trip! A wonderful gesture on what used to be Independence Day (the 4th of July), but for us a quarter century of “Codependence” Days. As I also often say, “We’ve been puttin’ the fun in dysfunctional since 1999.”

The rest of this batch has more of the Naeroyfjord, and some useful maps. Arriving in Flam, our ship was dwarfed by a cruise ships, the passengers of which only cramped our style a little…

More clips, and note that Marichka not only had a cake, but provided a little soundtrack as well. What a sweetie! And a slo-mo from the bow…

In Flam (pronounced floam), we first took a hike to waterfall vista, meeting some hungry critters along the way. Note the map, flowers, and sheep’s wool used as a ground cover…

In Flam, there is a small railroad museum, and yes, the last pic is not of that…

The railroad is a thing, and we had booked a ride up to Myrdal – “one of the most picturesque (and steepest) railway journeys in the country.” These pix are of that route – which stops briefly for the passengers to disembark to enjoy a huge waterfall, accompanied by a mystical Norse dance performance (can you find the woman in red?). Lots of flowers this time of year…

Two clips: train riding and the waterfall & siren (Norse nymph?) train stop…

Others jumped into the icy cold fjord this morning whilst I worked on this post. Too frigid for me. Thought about continuing it into tomorrow, but that’ll be in Part 6: Lillehammer…