I got home from my trip with plenty of time before Thanksgiving – and now I’m giving thanks to be home!

I immediately reconnected with my friend Alan to go for a couple of hikes. Mt. Ellen, just across from Memorial Park, was more of a doozy than I remembered. And, we went to the beach, amongst some tidepools, at a secret spot near Pescadero (the “Marry Me” shots were on the way home).

(Keep scrolling to find the Thanksgiving extravaganza hosted by Nancy & Jered at Pie Ranch, including the visit by Ron, Julian, and Cooper from New Zealand.)

On the La Honda Google Group, someone recently shared this archival map of the Cuesta Guild. We are so grateful to live here…

Perhaps you’ve noticed I added a logo to randomvail.com? Not sure if mating banana slugs that look like a Yin Yang symbol is everything, but it’s a lot & it also looks like a (love) spiral = logos!?

Cooper & Julian frolicking in La Honda.

Then, a barn dance at Pie Ranch…

Another hike with Alan…

Thanks to Jered & Nancy for cooking another Thanksgiving dinner extravaganza…

Flowing from Thursday to Friday, we then gathered for a Memorial Service/Remembrance Ceremony at Año Nuevo State Beach. While the focus was on our Mom, Joanne, who passed away in January, we also remembered our Dad, Evan, who passed away in 2014. They were married for 64 years (and I am 64)! Gratitude for having such wonderful parents – and such a loving extended family. Words were said, ashes were spread…

Eventually, after a magnificent leftoverture, we found ourselves in Santa Cruz listening to Lucas at Jack O’Neill’s, then going to the boardwalk (and a Dr. Ron dominated game of Laser Tag) before some Mexican food thereabouts. Goodbyes to Ron, Julian, & Cooper who flew back to New Zealand the next day…

Many of the grains of corn – our gratitude ritual – had to do with family. We have much to be thankful for!

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone…

This is my last post from my first retirement adventure, thus I write happily home in La Honda…

Part 4, a focus on one museum and one neighborhood, came after this first batch. I should have a picture of my Istanbul Kart because, like the Opal Card in Sydney, it allows one to cheaply use multiple forms of transportation. Thus, this is rather random, sites from ferries, buses, trams, and the metro. It includes some exteriors of Dolmabahçe Palace, which, like the Princes Islands, and many other historical, cultural, or political venues (ie. cannons outside the Naval Museum), I just didn’t make it to on this trip. Alas…

I did purposefully go to the Aquaduct of Valens, an ancient Roman edifice hearkening back to 373 AD. On that excursion, I discovered a very pleasant, non-tourist street with nice local restaurants and an agglomeration of meat markets. One also encounters more mosques and the ubiquitous cemeteries around them, some inhabited by the more ubiquitous cats of Istanbul. In addition to some feral old men, there’s a shot of the Flying Horse in Fatih Memorial Park, and I guy getting a traffic ticket…

I also came across another archaeological park. Next day, made sure to visit the Pudding Shop on another excursion to Asia (ferry ride to the east side) to have a coffee at Nevmekan Sahil and see some art. Note more 100th anniversary stuff, the Maiden’s Tower, the lecturing dad, and more cats…

Not a typical tourist shot, this first one shows a woman scrounging through a dumpster, likely looking for food to feed her two street urchin children. Sadly, the cats are not the only feral creatures. More from Taksim, Istiklal (trolley), the Tunel (second oldest metro), and some public backgammon…

I had intended to move around Istanbul, maybe staying two nights in three different neighborhoods? I tried, but moving is hard, and when I was given the penthouse suite, the only room on the fifth floor, just off the restaurant, I decided to stay.

From the fifth floor of the Hotel Saba, the two nice ladies who attended to breakfast and made me some eggs, the views from my room, the restaurant, terrace, and two of the islands in the Sea of Marmara…

While 12+ hour flights can be particularly grueling, this one was great! Views of the Black Sea and the Bay Area, three movies, two great meals (love airplane food), polar route sunset thru tinted windows, fluffy clouds, and a spectacular view of San Francisco and low tide shimmers…

Gone for a bit more than a month, good times but great to be home and doing some chores. Thanks for looking at my pix. Where should I go next…?

I’m happy to report that in my knockin’ ’round Istanbul for the last few days I finally found some meaning. What does that mean? When serendipity strikes best, it’s an unexpected confluence of signs pointing in more the one direction, but in the same sorta way – if you know what I mean? Which can’t be true, because I don’t either. Maybe it’s like, “I know what I like” and “I like what I know”? (Nuthin’ from nuthin’ means sumpthin’?) No…!

Restart. ML’s book club read something by Orhan Pamuk, a Turkish writer who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2006. I’d never heard of the guy, but in doing some research discovered that there was a Museum of Innocence here in Istanbul, made to manifest his novel of the same name. How cool is that?

So, after going to a rather famous library cafe on the Asian side for a coffee (rather appropriate), I went to check it out. As a lover and perpetrator of collage/montage/assemblage, I was blown away.

Each diorama display case of miscellaneous (innocent?) objects represented a chapter from the book (which I’ll now have to read). Apparently, it’s about the life of this relatively regular (innocent?) guy who actually lived in the house that is now the museum.

Each display case was an artwork, in presentation, composition, juxtaposition, and the pregnancy of meaning in objets trouvés. And that’s not even having read the book.

Fortunately, I was perusing the three floors of this narrow house with a Syrian guy who was discussing the book, the writing, and the stuff in the displays with his girlfriend (he even bought her a romantic objet in the gift shop).

Anyway, I was eavesdropping for quite a while before asking a few innocent questions which he graciously answered, casting a bit more meaning on the miscellany. It was a Song of Experience…

In any case, on the ground floor, the first and largest display is of over four thousand cigarette butts with notes on each over a period of years. The sheer attention to detail is aesthetically overwhelming!

As one works one’s way up the stairs and follows the linear progression of cases corresponding to chapters, each assemblage tells part of the story, which my new Syrian friend assured me was beautifully written, as well as the English translation (tho’ not the Arabic one?). Check ’em out…

This next batch may be the largest single collection of pix I’ve put in a post – and it’s a run-on from the ones before and after it. You should know that the photographs do not do justice to the display cases because each is about a foot deep, with rich 3D aspects – using the sides, and suspending items with lines – even adding mini video screens, etc… One could spend hours in this small museum ruminating on the details in each case, contemplating their significance in the lives of real people…

This last batch features details from a large display of his notebooks featuring long hand writing and drawings, with detailed interpretive captions. The last pic shows the museum from the outside, but more importantly, the second to last pic is his manifesto for museums, what they can and should be – and which most certainly this one is. I was thrilled to have found it…

Then, the serendipity went on steroids! The Museum of Innocence is adjacent to an agglomeration of antique shops in the Çukurcuma section of Cihangir neighborhood off Istiklal Street. I went into a few of them, but was overwhelmed by the onslaught of artifacts.

Each one could represent hours of browsing, and there were dozens. Each one had far more detail than the displays in the Museum of Innocence. Each one was so densely packed with art and history and meaning that I dared not go in. I could just take photos of these intricate display cases, these vast and intriguing collections, these epic collage/montage/assemblage business artworks…

Yes, there are other things in these two batches. Paintings, community water fountains, actual art galleries, and the charming streets of my new favorite neighborhood in Istanbul. Some shops had themes – marbles, clothing, books, jewelry, furniture, etc., but all represented years of collecting, each a library of novels by more than one Nobel Prize for Literature winner!

Hopefully, you share or can at least appreciate my appreciation for collections of things, especially beautiful or somehow meanful ones. Their juxtaposition or composition; and the flights of imagination one can take in reflecting on where they have been, and who else appreciated them, and when, and how, and why…?

The Grand Bazaar should be for buying stuff, but I just took some pix. It may seem like a lotta pix, but there’s a lotta stuff to buy – this first batch is just a sampling of passage ways and a few shops…

The Grand Bazaar gets interesting around the fringe, where one might find an ancient water tap, a pocket cemetery, or snoozing cats.

Apart from the jewelry & carpets, clothing & shoes, victuals & delights, there are agglomerations of more quotidian goods. For example, several shops featuring only grommets and various metal bits.

Imagine that life? Setting in a small cubicle waiting for someone to come by some of your metal bits, all day, every day? Isn’t it better to sell colorful rocks, rings, colorful strings, or fruity things?

Imagine talking to the same guys about the same things, drinking the same tea, smoking another cigarette, but making your displays organized and attractive…

The last shot is an explanation of a very old building with an interesting courtyard (note safe & sleeping kitty). I walked around both floors, peeping in at offices of computers, curious. Parrot kissing, etc…

I am attracted to the aniquities and there was much of that in the very center of the bazaar. Also impressive is some, tho’ not all, of the jewelry. Fine metal work, filigree, precious stones, baroque detail…

The guys in this first pic seemed to be having arguments with their phones at the same time? Then, under one section of what looked like ancient domes on Google Mapa (but was quite modern) I found what seemed to be one operation: a fancy restaurant, upscale shops, and museum displays. It seems that the guy in the painting (under the painting of Marlon Brando) ran the whole show! What’s the story?

Here’s a bunch of miscellany: people, obelisks, the tip of Sultanahmet, more mosques & monuments, and a sign next to my new favorite restaurant explaining the little street it (& my hotel) are on…

That day I was tired, didn’t get started ’til noon. But I did get a card for the transportation system! I took a long tram ride outside the city walls, but came right back and went to bed.

The next day, wanting to beat the crowds to the Basilica Cistern, I was up early. Amazing, and to think there are many all over the city! Check it out…

Hopped on the tram, went over the Golden Horn, and when I got off, thought I was going to the Metro station. Turned out to be the Ferry. Wanna go from Europe to Asia?

No problem, hopped on and went to Kadikoy, allegedly one of the coolest neighborhoods in Istanbul. It did have lots of cool, walkable streets with 100s of cafes. Probably great night life, but I was there during the day. The ferry rides across the Bosporus were pleasant – great views, cool breeze…

Once back on the European side, I succeeded in finding the Metro, which in fact was an underground funicular going from sea level up to Taksim Square.

It is huge and the on-going centennial celebration was in full swing with two large video set ups with patriotism on parade. From the Turkish Government and Wikipedia.

Here are some related articles from CarnegieEurope, Reuters, CNN, Al Jazeera, & the Washington Post.

From Taksim Square, I started a long walk down Istiklal Street, occasionally digressing onto side streets…

At one point I came to what seemed to be an exhibition building. (Not sure if the building or the exhibit was called “Salt” but I checked out every floor, particularly enjoying the book store…

The very first picture in this batch is of the building with the exhibits & book store. The rest is the rest of the walk down Istiklal Street to the Galata Tower.

I remember it from 1993 when two kids and I left our cruise ship and explored this part of Istanbul during one of my HGM Europe trips. Now, it is being renovated and one can’t go to the very top, but it’s still cool. Then, there was belly dancing…!

360 degree views from near the top of the Galata Tower, including a photo shoot atop a nearby building. There was also a 3D model of Istanbul with many of the famous sites…

After another long day walking around, I again went back to my hotel went to bed rather early. Here’s the random batch from the way home…

I’ll stop there, for now…

On my first full day, after visiting the two famous mosques, I went to the Topkapi Palace, seat of the great Ottoman Empire for centuries. The palace is vast, courtyards, buildings, and many exhibits.

This first batch shows the main gate, a map of the city, one of the many cats, some of many old trees, part of the Harem, and some of the ruin relics outside one of the gates, etc…

In addition to general luxuriant splendor of the place, there are separate exhibits featuring clothing & carpets, weapons & armaments, clocks & gadgetry, ceramics & kitchen stuff, jewelry & other imperial bling. Here is a meagre sampling…

There were a couple of terraces featuring spectacular views of the city. Can you see the Camlica Tower and the Bosphorus Bridge connecting Europe & Asia (and one shot of just part of one courtyard)?

Jewelry and jewelry encrusted everything (swords, guns, boxes, & books)…

Palatial miscellany: rooms in the harem, a library, weaponry, and more splendiferousishness…

At the end of a long day, I returned to my room upgrade – the penthouse on the terrace level. That went well with the spectacular sunset, glowing clouds, and ubiquitous seagulls…

Also from the terrace at night: the Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia alight (and my kinda trike)…

That’ll do for now. Let’s see what the rest of the day brings…

Of course, between the end of “The Stans” and the beginning of “Istanbul” other stuff happened…

The day before I left Central Asia for Türkiye, and shortly after I got back to Tashkent from Khiva, I visited my former student, Christiane Ochoa, at her work with USAID at the US Embassy in Uzbekistan.

Not only did she give a tour of the Embassy and the USAID offices, she introduced me to the US Ambassador, Jonathan Henick! She also introduced me to a bunch of people and we had lunch there.

Later than evening, we went out to a great Georgian restaurant with Joel, an education officer, Carson, in military cooperation, and his wife Heather. After a fun taxi ride, we went to a Russian punk bar!

Not only does this first batch show some of that fun, it depicts Christiane showing off her diplomatic passport (with many stamps). Also, I couldn’t resist snapping Samantha Power‘s message in a book she signed for Christiane (I had read another, her memoir: “The Education of an Idealist.” (She had been the US Ambassador to the United Nations under Obama, and now runs USAID.) Cool stuff…

The flight was easy breezy, and I was able to get this stunning phot of the Bosporus, the strait between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara (eventually the Mediterranean), the gap between Europe and Asia!

The taxi ride from the airport was over an hour, but amazingly (not without some discussion) the driver delivered me right to my little hotel in the middle of Sultanahmet neighborhood, home to some of Istanbul’s most iconic historical sites. That afternoon, I strolled around the Blue Mosque and took in some of the ‘hood. That included some bling, the Hagia Sofia from a distance, a dilapidated old building, etc. This batch includes breakfast from the terrace of the hotel and its incredible views…

The next morning, after a leisurely start, I went back to the Blue Mosque to check it out again from the inside (actually I’ve been to Istanbul briefly once before when I chaperoned a trip that was mostly to Greece). It is beautiful and all these shots are from/of the inside…

Interestingly, the Istanbul Marathon was taking place today (same day as the one in NYC!), so I couldn’t help but cheer on some of the finishers (I think I saw the woman winner cross the finish line (much glitter and fanfare). And I avoided the many road closures that were taking place around the city…

Next, I went to the Hagia Sophia, which used to be a Christian Cathedral, but has long been a Muslim Mosque. It truly is spectacular, such a vast space under the ancient domes. Note the pic of the face. Others from the Christian era have been painted over because Islam iconography shuns depicting people (even animals), but that one is like a truth window (as are several crosses thereabouts). In spite of the onslaught of tourists, I did a little meditating before we infidels were purged before prayer…

Next, I went to Topkapi Palace. However, that epic event deserves it’s own post, so I’ll wrap it up here…!

We had a farewell lunch in Bukhara before a long train ride back to Tashkent. The Australian ladies left in the night, and the two couples were at breakfast, but left shortly thereafter. I took another long walk around town and ended up taking in the amazing water fountain light show in the city park.

In addition to random sites, you can see the circular Interpol offices, the Amir Temur statue, two more karaoke booths, and an outstanding sunset over Tashkent. Go to the Stans, Part 6 and scroll down to see some videos of the light show. Thanks in advance for your patience…

On Halloween day I flew from Tashkent to Khiva. Thanks to Miko, my driver/tourguide, Alimardan, picked me up at the airport and set me up in pretty good hotel in the middle of the old town.

In this batch, I arrive and walk around, including outside the old town (altho’ those streets are also probably equally old). Met some kids, puppies, and old ladies….

Next day, Ali gave me the full tour of Khiva.

Unlike Samarkand and Bukhara, Khiva has an almost completely restored old town fortress, with large walls all around the labyrinth of old mosques, madrasas, museums, monuments, mausoleums, and more.

Like those other two ancient cities, there is a well established tourist trade in similar local goods. What’s different are the big furry hats.

What’s similar is much of the architectural features, and the opportunities the Khans had with multiple wives and numerous courtesans.

As Ali explained, “harum” means forbidden, so no one really knows what happened in the Khan’s “bedroom” – a huge area with rooms the the Khan, his four wives, and the many courtesans…

Note the word “Xorazm” in the map (first picture), this is where Khiva is and note that the Aral Sea just above it has now unfortunately sunk into the desert and evaporated.

In addition to the good view from the second highest viewpoint in the city, there are many pix of etchings depicting the lives of Mennonites who once lived here. One of them (somewhat out of the Luddite nature of Mennonite character) taught the art of photography to a local who then took many pix of other locals. Note the shots of negatives, as well as dioramas, and artisans – other prominent features around Khiva…

One of the mosques was a converted Zoroastrian temple which now features 213 pillars. More of the Khan’s haram, and the work of the prominent (and prolific) photographer, and some miscellany. The last pic is of Ali’s dad giving a tour to some Russian ladies. The whole family is in the tourist biz…

This batch starts with more pix in and around the Khan’s chambers. There’s one shot outside the fortress walls in the vicinity of what was the slave market (not a good story). Then more on the photographer (with his camera), and long corridor of a crafts museum.

Eventually you’ll get to the mausoleum of Khiva’s favorite son, Pahlavon Mahmud. A renaissance traveler, apparently he was good at many things from wrestling and poetry to craftsmanship, leadership, and philosophy. During our visit we were blessed with a song – please read about him in the one pic…

This batch ends with a visit to a master class crafts market. Note some of the miscellany related to past posts…

Ali finished our tour around 3:00, after much walking. We both went home to take naps, then later I walked over to his family’s restaurant, Khiva Moon, for dinner. A long walk home for more napping…

Next day (as I write this), I went for a walk, got a haircut, and then hit some of the spots we missed the day before. Once of them turned out to be my favorite of the town – “The Museum of Scholars” – because not only did it have the displays seen here, there were two great explanatory videos…

The stone road here is over 1000 years old and features grooves cut by cart & carriage wheels over 100s of years! I went to another museum, explored another ancient room or two, then climbed to the highest point, the tallest minaret in Khiva, Islam Khoja. (BTW, the prominently featured green dome is the mausoleum of Pahlavon Mahmud.) Check out the views…

Ooooops, another long one. I was going to try to finish up Uzbekistan with this post, but I’ve got more to do. Flying back to Tashkent and visiting Christiane at the US Embassy before flying to Turkey on Saturday. Stay strong…